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In those days, we languished in our East Village or Hell’s Kitchen railroad apartments — the kind with floors that sloped and a tub in the kitchen from which you could reach a wet hand out of the morning shower to turn off the gas under the hissing pot of Café Bustelo. read You’d throw your key down in a balled-up tube sock to friends below on the sidewalk — because the buzzer never worked — and you’d sit out on the fire escape at night to try to stay cool. In that kind of sweltering heat — which here in ruthless New York automatically came with the added affronts of suffocating humidity, truck grit, broken glass, screeching subway cars and the stench of some unexplained three-day stretch without garbage pickup — a cold beverage was hardly enough. You’re not just hot; you’re blunted. Stupid. Gummy. Cold beer, cold soda, cold water may all do their parts to keep you hydrated but do next to nothing for your compromised faculties, leaving you wide open and vulnerable to, say, surrendering upward of 40 bucks, in $5 increments, to the three-card-monte guys who used to run their scams off flattened cardboard boxes topping milk crates on 14th Street, before broken-windows policing was even a thing. I will swear to you that the ultrafocusing combination of salt and puckering tartness of sorrel in this ice-cold schav has spared me from some of the more sinister and costlier summer scams of the era. It was not I who meticulously examined and then bought that brand-new stereo receiver for $100 from a guy on the corner of Houston and Sixth, only to open the box up at home to find nothing but wet newspaper inside.

For the original version including any supplementary images or video, visit https://www.nytimes.com/2017/06/15/magazine/the-pleasure-of-a-chilled-soup-on-a-sweltering-day.html

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